
Grand Place – Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country
The distinct two-tone siren from a Belgium ambulance echoes fourteen floors below the perch where we have set up camp on day one of our two-week trip to Europe.
It is 6:30AM and we have just arrived after a 19-hour journey from China – which included a 10-hour flight from Beijing to Brussels which only felt like a few hours due to my normally elusive deep sleep during flight.
The first four cyclists I spot out of my downtown Brussels hotel room window are wearing bright neon reflective vests and helmets – not a sign of an established and accepted bicycle culture.

Reflective vests and helmets on Brussels cyclists – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country
As the day wears on, I notice some basic bicycle infrastructure on some streets, and I spot several people in regular clothes riding bikes.
But I didn’t see groups of cyclists bunching up at traffic signals waiting for a green light – cyclists were mostly one-off occurrences. My home town of Toronto, it seems, even has scores more cyclists than Brussels seems to have.
The bicycle infrastructure that I observed here seems inadequate. The bike lanes were very narrow – even by North American standards. Cars, public transit and pedestrians seem to be the most-catered-to modes of transportation here.
The inadequate infrastructure seems to explain why so many Brussels cyclists feel compelled to wear neon vests and helmets.

Narrow painted bike lanes in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country
Besides the narrow bike lanes, there seemed to be some positive provisions that catered to bicycles. I spotted several signs exempting bicycles from being subject to one-way streets.
Brussels also has a bike-sharing program called “Villo!”, with 2,500 bikes at 180 stations around the city.

One-way street for cars, two way for bicycles – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

Do not enter, except bicycles – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

Brussels Villo! bike share system – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country
Although Brussels might be lagging in bicycle culture, walking around the city proved enjoyable, and there are an abundance of beautiful public spaces with amazing scenery to enjoy here in the city.
No more than one hour after arriving in Brussels, a waiter who served us breakfast on a patio in the scenic Grand Place started to reminisce on the 22 years he lived in Toronto. “I really miss living in TO”, he said with a sad frown on his face – with Brussels City Hall circa 1455 in the background enamouring me as he spoke.
Perspective is everything.
As I watch the road warriors pedal past me throughout the day, I think to myself that I will indeed need to wait until tomorrow when I arrive in Amsterdam to get a true taste of an established bicycle culture that the Dutch are famous for.
I am now loading my pack and in two hours I will be on a train headed for Amsterdam.
James D. Schwartz is a Transportation Pragmatist and the Editor of The Urban Country. You can contact James at james.schwartz@theurbancountry.com or follow him on Twitter.
Here are a few additional photos from our day in Brussels:

Bike statue in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

Plug-in electric vehicle in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

The Manneken Pis in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

The Atomium in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

Bicyclist in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

Bicyclist in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

Bicyclist in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country

Bicyclist in Brussels, Belgium – Photo by James Schwartz / The Urban Country
Related Articles:
- My Dutch Family History (Feb 2011)
- Dutch Cycle Chic – Toronto Style (Dec 2010)
- Amsterdamizing The World (Jan 2011)
- Ghettoize Me, Please (Jan 2011)
- Dutch Cycling Promotion. Good For The Body, Legs & The Eyes (March 2012)



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